There are a couple other reasons it’s sort of crazy. I’m a 53 year old, stay-at-home mom of young kids who hasn’t seriously worked out in over five years and, since then, has put on a few pounds.
But how can I let that stop me? Surfing looks like exhilarating, off-the-charts fun. People who actually do it confirm this. I’m a big fan of fun and it dawned on me recently, as I signed my kids up for their upcoming summer of fun, that I needed more. I had let my “work hard/play hard” ethic get way out of balance.
So no surf, overweight and out of shape. Minor details, right? Did I let them stop me from signing up for surf lessons in August? Hell no! I found a little local school in Cocoa Beach, Florida, and reserved my spot. I booked a hotel room. I posted my intentions on Facebook. I made a diet and exercise plan.
And then, a few days later, the universe chimed in.
With a little time between dropping-off and picking-up my daughter, I went to a bookstore for books on surfing. An employee, Don, approached and asked if I needed any help. I said I was looking for the sports section and he helpfully ushered me in the right direction as I added that I was looking for books on surfing. He gave me a quick look-over and said “For a gift?” Nice, Don. With a very sheepish smile I answered “No, it’s for me. I want to learn to surf.” Don brightened up considerably and said “I’m a surfer! I lived in San Diego and surfed for twenty years. I lived with a U.S. surf champion.” I stopped in my tracks – huh??? No way!
Don was delighted to point me to books, documentaries and movies about surfing and recommended others I could find elsewhere. We shook our heads and laughed about the coincidence of meeting – I mean, really, there I am, freshly bitten by the surf bug, out looking for books on surfing and a surfer walks up to help me? In Wisconsin?? I was pretty sure the universe had just said “Do it. Follow your crazy.”
But yin needs its yang and they met much later that night. After meeting the surfer dude, after days of confidently setting my surf quest in motion, and after announcing it to the world, then, of course, I starting freaking out. Couldn't sleep for the freaking. This was just bravado, I thought. It was nonsense spouted by a person with pitiful core strength who can barely do five push-ups on her knees! What was I thinking? It was a long night.
Remarkably, by morning the panic was gone and the drive to surf was back, due in no small part to my boost from the universe. That and, well, it is just the pursuit of fun here.
Sure, surfing is a crazy dream for me. But aren't those often the best kind?
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