I came. I surfed. I applied ice.

It was an amazing thing to finally get into the ocean and surf!  With its sandy bottom and the absence of rocks and reef, Cocoa Beach, Florida was a great place to learn.  I had one hour lessons for three days from August 9-11.

It’s a really good thing I researched surf schools and instructors because I hit the jackpot with Lauren Holland from School of Surf,  www.schoolofsurf.org. Lauren is a former pro surfer and champion, as is her husband, Todd. Together they own and operate the school. Lauren is very good at what she does - she's professional, keeps you safe, works her butt off and yet manages to be very cool, laid back and good company.

Each lesson started at the School of Surf with instruction from Lauren (technique and safety) and then she'd load the surf board on a cart and we’d walk two blocks to the beach.

I was excited as we got into the water and made our way out. When it came time to give it a go,  I got into position for my first wave. Lauren turned the board toward shore and started pushing it. The wave came, she yelled “pop up,” and surprisingly, I did!

I don’t remember how long I stayed up, but I do remember when I came down on my foot. Ouch. The experience quickly taught me the importance of falling flat off the board without trying to break my fall with any limbs.

The next two days we were in deeper water and I never hit the bottom again (and I think I almost always fell flat and covered my head and nose to guard against the board hitting me).

The lessons went really well and I gradually put things together enough to feel like I was getting the hang of it. I even rode a few waves all the way in. There were a lot of wipe-outs which were useful as Lauren could usually pinpoint what I’d done wrong and I could try to correct it next time. 

Surfing was exhilarating. I loved that it required total focus and kept me completely in the moment. I feel like I should be writing that it was fun, but for some reason, that word doesn't fit. Fun is playing tennis with my kids. This was more than fun.

As the surfers would say, this was epic.

P.S. About that ice, between falling on my foot and the general strain on both feet,  I seriously needed it. (Icing sore stuff is brilliant. I am a total convert). A million thanks to my husband, Greg, for his many ice deliveries to me and my aching, elevated feet. And for his great photography and videography. And for the way he drives a Camaro.